For an American driver, the greatest road hazard is something the Irish call a roundabout or what we more commonly call a traffic circle. The problem with a roundabout is that North American drivers entering a roundabout instinctively look to the left, when oncoming traffic is actually coming from the right.

After several days of driving, we came to the conclusion that there is not a straight mile of roadway in all of Ireland. (In fact, there are many excellent highways.) On the less traveled byways, an unbroken white line indicates that passing or overtaking is forbidden. The intermittent line indicates you can pass with caution, but watch carefully for oncoming cars and don't scare your passenger into a heart attack by coming within inches of the vehicle you're passing.

Road signs are sometimes marked in kilometers and sometimes in miles, causing untold confusion for American drivers. We reached destinations ahead of schedule or behind schedule, depending on which road signs we read. Finally we learned that the brown road signs with white lettering are inscribed with kilometers with the number followed a a small "k" and the white road signs with black lettering are in miles. Other signs are similar to the European standard and can usually be interpreted by their design. Yellow diamond shaped signs with black markings indicate road hazards. Being able to read English is helpful, but not always necessary.

Directional signs are picturesque and informative, but Saturday night pub crawlers have been known to twist the signs, which are mounted on pivots, to the wrong direction and strangers on the Ring of Kerry can, much to their consternation, end up in Knightstown instead of Ballybrack.

After the first hundred kilometers, Ann's knuckles returned to their normal color and we both sat back to enjoy the breathtaking vistas which Ireland has to offer the traveler. Driving a rental car in Ireland proved to be an adventure, rich in experience, and one which we highly recommend to the visitor who wants to meet the people and see the country on his own.

Our previous trip to Ireland had been on a tour bus, and the difference a car makes far exceeds the value of any pot of gold a traveler might find at the end of a rainbow, so often displayed in the skies of Ireland. As enthusiastic photographers, the car permitted us to stop for pictures whenever we pleased, to set our own schedule, and to eat when we were hungry. The spacious trunk of the Rover allowed us to store our cameras and other luggage out of sight. For us it was a very attractive alternative to being part of a package tour.

We opted to pay a two pound per day premium (about $3.00 U.S.) so that either of us were authorized to drive and we could spell each other on long runs.

Petrol (gasoline) is dear in Ireland. Be prepared to pay about $4.00 a gallon, but filling stations are convenient and only too glad to accept your American credit cards. The friendly attendants will check your oil and clean your windshield with a smile.

City driving in Ireland, as in the States, is more complex than in rural areas, but it can be especially confusing for a person unfamilar with the traffic regulations and traffic signs. For instance, it is not permitted to turn right at a red light after stopping. The most common way of marking a "no entry" street is with large letters on the pavement, something we did not know in advance. Another indication of "no entry" is a circular sign with an arrow with a red slash across it. Traffic can flow around your vehicle on both sides on a one way street, so do not change lanes without checking your rear vision mirrors.

I joke about Ann being nervous with my driving, but in fact driving a rental car has its risks. In our opinion, however, it is possible for a good driver to adjust to the left side driving environment and the benefits of driving for the sophisticated, experienced traveler are tremendous. You can, for instance, enjoy a quiet, leisurely lunch of garlic breaded mussels with a glass of white wine at Moran's of the Weir, a famous Oyster Pub overlooking the Bay of Galway. Such an experience is not possible when traveling on a tour bus. Instead you may be rushed through a roadside food stop catering to bus groups and be given 30 minutes to eat chicken with overcooked peas and Brussel sprouts.

It is easy to see that we recommend seeing Ireland with a car unless you can afford being driven in a Rolls Royce by your own chauffeur. Unfortunately that doesn't fit into our current budget.

INFORMATION BOX:

A variety of "Discover Ireland Escapes" including an Avis rental car are available through Aer Lingus at remarkably affordable prices. These start at low as $499 including airfare. Rental car and accomodations start as low as $39 per day for B&Bs, with hotels slightly higher. Brochures and details can be had by calling 1-800-223-6537.